Fabric and method of making the same



June 1l, 1946. A. A. KAHIL 2,40L830 FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 28,` 1945 2 sheetsfseet 1 m. m w. w.

y M K A m d M r l0 4 yf-f 1./ ATTR/VEY June 11, 1946.

A. A. KAHlL FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April A 28, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Arramvfy Patented June 11, 1946 UNITED STAT Abraham A. Kahil, Ridgefield, N. J. Application April 28, 1945, Serial No. 590,789

' My present invention relates to a fabric having two or more plies stitched together at spaced. intervals, the outer or facing ply or plies being of closely woven non-shrinkable material, and the inner ply or plies being of a material shrunk, after the plies have been united, in such manner as to cause the facing ply orv plies to pucker or crinkle.

In the fabric of my invention, for example, there may be a single base or underlying ply of shrinkable material and a single outer or facing ply overlying the base ply and stitched thereto at intervals as, for example, by longitudinal after being stitched to the facing fabric, shrinks to give the puckered or crinkled effect or it may Vbe a wedding wholly or. partially of woolen fibers.

In case shrinking is to take place by fulling the base or underlying fabric or wadding need not be of pure woolen fibers but may be of wool admixed with cotton or other natural fibers or with fibers of Airlac or other synthetic fibers.

The base or underlying fabric may be a. loosely woven fabric in which the warp or weft or both` are of supertwisted yarns or-threads held straight Y by sizing during weaving and being stitched to stitching at regularly or irregularly lspaced intervals, by spaced cross-stitching, or by stitching in a figured design or in diagonalor crisscross formations.

The two or more plies are attached securely at4 the points or lines of stitching and consequently when the under or base ply or plies are shrunk or contracted the spaces of the facing fabric between the stitchings are crinkled or puckered. The effect or appearance may be simbe combined with a base fabric structure in such a manner as to provide a large number of small insulating qualities, the facing fabrics in this case servingto prevent penetrationby the wind, while the inner or base fabric may have the heat insulating qualities of wool increased by the ladded pocketing of air. In this'way a number of alternate plies may be used as, for example,

' air pockets'to provide a fabric of increased heat two facing fabrics, two shrinkable base fabrics and an intermediate closely woven fabric between the two shrinkable fabrics. the crlnkling of this intermediate closely woven fabric s'erving to increase the thickness and the number of air Dockets without increasing proportionately the weight.

The facing fabric may be of any substantially non-shrinkable material as, for example' cotton, silk, rayon, nylon, orA mixtures of them. Shrinking of 'these fabrics may take place toA some extent, but to obtain the crinkled or puckered effect any such shrinking must be small in comparison with that of the underlying or base ply.. v v

The underlying or base plymay be ofany suitable shrinkable material. It may be a loosely woven woolen fabric lshrunk by fulling after the facing fabric Aand which twist and double and Athereby shorten when the sizing is later -washed out. The effect is similar to that of shrinking a woolen fabric by fulling except that the shrinkage in the yarns or threads manifests itself by localized curling or twisting of the thread on itself. Y

When heat insulation tion the base or intermediate fabric may be woven or`knitted or cut in such a manner aste provide a maximum of air pockets. For example the underlying fabric may 'for this purpose be made of an uneven or knobbed or nubby wool or thread in which parts stand up' from the surface so as to effect a deeper or thicker fabric, obtaining a proportionately increased amount of entrapped air.

The various features of the invention are lllustrated, by way of example, in the accompanying drawings in which v Iiig. 1 is a face view of a three-ply fabric embodying the construction of my present invention prior to the shrinking oi' the base or intermediate fabric, certain portions of the ply being torn away to show the interior construction;

Fig. 2 is a face view of the fabric after the base ply has been shrunk and the surface or face plies have thereby been crinkled:

Fig. 3 is a cross section on a greatly magnified scale of the fabric shown in Fig. 1; l

Fig. 4 is a cross section on a greatly magnified scale of the fabric shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a cross section on a greatly magnified scale of a five-ply fabric embodying the invention;

Fig. 6 is a cross section similar to -that of Fis. 4 of a fabric in which the base or intermediate ply ismade of super twisted thread or yarn in which the shrinkage is obtained by washing out the sizing; l

Fig. 7 is 'a cross section similar to that of Figs. 4 and 6 of a fabric in which the base or inner ply, is of a knitted, mat or felt construction.

Referring more particularly to Figse l-'4 of the drawings the fabric therein illustrated comprises two facing plies IU and Il of closely woven relatively non-shrinkable material anda shrinkable base ply I2. Theseplies are stitched together by is a primary considera# longitudinal stitchings. I3- at spacedintervals and transverse stitchings I4 at similarly spaced in tervals.

As shown in Fig. 3 the base ply I2 is rela-tively loosely woven. When shrunk as, for example, by fulling in the case of a woolen ply the yarn or threads of the ply shrink and this ply becomes more closely woven, as shown in Fig. 4, thus drawing together between the stitchings I3 and I4 and contractingthe areas between the stitchings. lThis causes the facing plies I and II to pucker or crinkle, puffing out to some extent. This gives the fancy or ornamental effect shown in Fig. 2. Also by increasing the thicknessof the fabric and enclosing air spaces or pockets.

as indicated at I5 and I6 in Fig. 4, the heat insulating qualities of the fabric are increased.

If further heat insulation is desired, the number of plies may be increased as illustrated in Fig. 5. lln this illustration there are three re1- atively closely woven plies I'I, .I8 and I9. Between the plies I1 and I8 there is a base orintermediate ply of fulled or shrunken threads or liber and between the plies I8 and I9 there It will be apparent that the crinkling of the plies I'I, I8 and I9 iluifs out the fabric giving it an increased apparent thickness and forming a larger number of separate air pockets between the various plies.

It will be understood that the number of plies may thus be increased with the result that a fabric of greatly increased heat insulating qualities may be obtained with a relatively small increase in weight.

In the example shown in Fig. 6 two facing plies 23 and 24 enclose a shrunk ply 25 in the `same manner as illustrated in Fig. 4. In this case, however, instead of using threads or yarns which, shrink by a drawing together and shifting of the fibers, as in the f-ulling of a woolen strand, the shrinking is obtained by using overly twisted threads or yarns 26 which are held straight or kept from twisting upon themselves by being lled with a water soluble size. However after the ply has been woven and united bystitching with the facing ply and the size then washed from the threads the super twisting of the threads causes them to twist upon each other, as shown at 2'I,

thus shortening the lengths of the threads at intervals and giving the effect of shrinking.' The protuberances at 21 also tend to provide increased air pockets.

' In the modification shown in Fig. 7 an intermediate or base ply 28 enclosed between facingweaving is required'either for the base fabric or the facing fabrics'. I

Inasmuch as the base fabric is not exposed qualityiof the fabrics. Since the fact that dsof the base or contracted ply do to wear or to `view,-cheaper constructions mayy be employed without impairing proportionately 'the not appear at any point on the surface or face fabrics the latter may be given a more uniform appearance. L

What I claim is:

1. A composite fabric which comprises a.

shrunk under fabric, a closely woven non-shrinking facing fabric and stitching at spaced intervals uniting said fabrics, said facing fabric being crinkled between said stitchings. 2. A composite fabric which shrunk fulled woolen under fabric, a closely woven non-shrinking facing fabric and stitching at spaced intervals uniting said fabrics, said fac? ing fabric being crinkled between said-stitchings.

.3'. The fabric of claiml 2 in which saidA under fabric is a woven fabric.

4. The fabric of claim 2 in` which said under fabric is a felted fabric having woolen fibers.

5. A composite fabric which comprises -an under vfabric of overtwisted yarn in which the yarn is contracted by ytwisting upon itself, a

closely woven facing fabric and stitching at spaced intervals uniting said fabrics, said fabrics being crinkled'between' said stitchings.

6. A composite fabric which comprises a pair of closely woven non-shrinking facing fabrics, a shrunk inner fabric and stitching at spaced intervals unitingsaidfabrics, said facing fabrics being crinkled between said stitchings.

7. A composite fabric which comprises alternate layers o'f closely -woven non-shrinking crinkled fabric and yshrunk fabrics, said fabrics being stitched together at spaced intervals.

8. A method of making composite fabric which comprises stitching together at spaced intervals a closely woven non-shrinking facing fabric and a shrinkable base fabric and permanently contracting said base fabric to crinkle said facing' fabric between said stitchings.

9. Amethod of lmaking composite fabric which comprises stitching together at spaced intervals a a closely woven non-shrinking facing fabric and a shrinkable base fabriccomprising loosely 'woven woolen yarns and permanently contracting said base fabric to crinkle said facing fabric between said'stitchings.

10. A method of making composite which comprises stitching together at spaced intervals a closelylwoven fabric and a shrinkable base fabric comprising supertwisted yarns held straight by sizing and washing said sizing from said base fabric after said stitching to permit said yarns to twist upon themselves and contract and crinkle said facing fabric between said'stitchings.

ings.

11. A method of making composite fabric which comprises placing a bat comprising wool fibersbetween a pair of closely woven relatively nonshrinkable facing fabrics, stitching said facing fabrics andvbat together at spaced intervals and fulling said fabric to.contract said bat and to crinkle said facing fabrics between said stitch- 12. A method of making composite fabric which comprises superposing alternately closely woven relatively non-shrinkable fabrics and shrinkable fabrics, stitching said fabrics together at spaced intervals and shrinking the shrinkable fabrics to -cause the closely woven fabrics to crinkle between said stitchings. v

13. The fabric of claim 2 in which said under fabric is a Wadding having woolen bers.

14. 'Ihe fabric of claim 2 in which said under fabric is a knitted fabric having woolen ibers.v

ABRAHAM A. KAHIL.

com-prises a V fabric I 

